How to plan winter trip to Keylong, Lahaul Valley with Just ₹1500 per day Budget in 2025?

This is Keylong! The beautiful administrative centre of Lahaul and Spiti district, Himachal Pradesh.

For most people, Keylong is just another town on Manali – Leh highway. Many times, Lahaul valley is overshadowed by its big brother Ladakh. Even the Spiti valley is getting famous. But the beautiful Lahaul valley remains forgotten.

Lahaul valley used to be disconnected in winters after the snow block at Rohtang pass. But presently after the commencement of the famous Atal Tunnel, Lahaul valley remains accessible year round. Most people who come to Manali in winters go to Solang valley & to the Atal Tunnel at the max. But beyond the Atal Tunnel, there lies the magical winter wonderland.

Winters are extremely harsh in Lahaul valley. This blog is all about my personal travel experiences in Lahaul valley, Himachal Pradesh, which might serve as Travel Guide for all who wish to explore this harsh region in peak winter.

How did I land up in Keylong?

I wanted to travel to a winter paradise but I was confused. From last two years, I read a lot of news articles about how the winter wonderlands in India were snow barren due to climate change. Back in 2020, there used to be abundant snowfall even in Mussoorie & Dhanaulti. But sadly, as temperatures are rising, winter wonderlands are losing their charm.

I love mountains draped with either snow or greenery. I usually hate brown mountains, unless they are hiding behind some gorgeous lake like Chandrataal. So the thought of being in front of barren brown mountain devoid of snow terrified me. That’s why I was confused about selecting any particular destination.

So I just booked to & fro Rajdhani tickets to Delhi and didn’t plan any further journey & destinations. Usually I do well researched planned travel. People who know me couldn’t just digest the fact that I was going to somewhere without a plan. Travel dates were coming near, but I didn’t had any plans.

On the journey day, I was scrolling Instagram and came across a picture of a beautiful bus stand in Himachal Pradesh. I was completely schmitten by that lovely picture of Keylong bus stand and immediately made up my mind to go there.

I even wrote last blog on blind traveling, i.e travel without any research.

In my last blog only, I had claimed that it’s basic common sense that one should not land up in any destination just by watching some random instagram material.

But I wanted to be an idiot and experiment something crazy.

I new nothing about Keylong. I just knew that it is the head quarter of Lahaul & Spiti district, Himachal Pradesh. I had earlier travelled to Lahaul and Spiti district twice. But both trips were in summer season but still my limbs froze in night times. I never thought or imagined that I would enter this dangerously cold district ever in winter.

But that’s the power of madness! It can take you anywhere!

Journey to Lahaul valley

Due to extraordinary fog situation in Uttar Pradesh, Rajdhani express got delayed and reached Delhi by delay of an hour. In the meantime, I was looking up for Volvo bus tickets from Delhi to Manali. Through the Redbus app, I booked online tickets of Volvo from Laxmi Holidays. Bus was clean and punctual and departed from ISBT Kashmiri Gate at 6.30 pm.

I had booked seat in the third row from the front & was able to see the front view/driver’s view. The bus ride got quite thrilling after 10 p.m. We were crossing through Haryana state and dense fog covered the highway. Absolutely nothing was visible for the driver. I had a window seat and couldn’t see a big truck which was just a couple of feet away from me. I just glanced at the bus driver and noticed his Himachali look and convinced my mind that Himachali drivers are the best and will do their best. After assuring my mind, I slept peacefully.

The bus adventure didn’t stop here. Designated arrival time of the bus was 6.30 a.m. in Manali. However to my surprise, the bus reached Manali at 5.40 a.m. Half asleep, I took my backpack to exit from the bus.

Now Manali is such a commercialized place. Two guys entered our bus and started pestering each and every passenger for taxi and hotel. After dodging those guys, I stepped out of the bus in the pitch darkness only to meet another dozen of taxi drivers.

It was an extra cold dark morning with (-5 °C temperature). I didn’t know what to do to get rid of these annoying taxi persons. Finally I told them to not follow me as I am neither interested in any kind of hotel or taxi as I was not going to stay in Manali and going to go further to Keylong. Then they started arguing that the road to Keylong is closed and no HRTC bus run till there and continued pestering to stay in Manali only.

I was completely annoyed with these people. They can speak any lies for commission for taxi & hotel bookings. I told them firmly, that I will confirm from HRTC only . HRTC bus stand is around 2 km away from Manali private bus stand. I was so much disgusted with the taxis, that I decided to walk till HRTC bus stand.

As I started walking, after 5 minutes, I found a tea stall on the road. I decided to stop there for tea and continue my walk further after dawn. Large big black mountain shapes of Manali were too scary at 5.40 a.m. for me. I drank the tea and the tea stall guy invited me to his small bonfire.

At the bonfire, I noticed another person sitting. After chatting with him, I found out that he is an native from Palampur, Himachal Pradesh and runs a traveller for sightseeing. We took tea & discussed on the topic of offbeat places in Himachal Pradesh for nearly one hour till the dawn.

After the dawn, when I started walking to HRTC bus stand, he stopped me and told me that he has to collect his customers for Manali sightseeing tour from the Mall road and he will drop me at the HRTC bus stand. I was so much surprised by his gratitude. On one hand, there were these annoying taxi drivers who can do anything for commission and on the other hand, there was this awesome kind traveller driver.

After reaching HRTC bus stand, I enquired about the bus to Keylong. Bus was around 8.50 a.m. I had a couple of hours to kill. I shopped some thermals and pair of hand gloves in Manali. I brushed my teeth and freshened up at a paid washroom with ice cold water.

I was roaming in Manali to look for some breakfast. But Manali mall road is so heavily commercialized, that I didn’t found any single local Himachali dish. All regular touristy breakfast menu. I skipped breakfast & went back to HRTC bus stand and took the bus.

( Important point – Recently when I travelled, there was a checkpoint at the end of Solang valley. So don’t attempt to go by bike in winters. Sometimes even cars/taxis might be stopped in peak winter season. Hence I personally recommend to take HRTC bus from Manali to Keylong in winters. When I travelled, I hardly saw any other vehicle except HRTC bus on this route.)

Keylong bus had three category of travelers. First category were the locals from Lahaul. Second category the most annoying category was the tourists who wanted to go to Solang valley. Third category were the food vendors who sell food at Solang valley.

After half an hour of journey 75% of the bus got empty at Solang valley. Second & Third category travellers got down at Solang.

And then began the most awesome part of the journey to Keylong. I requested the bus conductor to let me sit in bus conductor seat near the driver to which he happily agreed. And then I got the grandeur views ever.

After reaching Keylong

Bus reached Keylong at 11.30 a.m.

I had come to this place with zero planning and zero expectations. I got down from the bus and I was looking everywhere with eyes of child. I knew nothing about the accommodations. All the other passengers in the bus were the locals of Keylong and they went to their homes. Now only bus conductor and bus driver were left in the Bus- stand.

Bus conductor and bus driver looked at me with curiosity. They asked me, ” Madam, Why have you come here to such a cold place and that too in winters😳? Nobody comes here. You won’t be able to get anything here “.

I replied, ” I came here to get peacefulness.”

Then the bus conductor said, ” Oh Peacefulness!.. Then you have come to the right place.”

I asked him about the accomodations in the town. He replied, ” Walk down the lane. You will reach the bazaar. You might get some accommodation only if you are lucky! “

I started walking through this sleepy town. As this town is the headquarters of Lahaul and Spiti district, there are many government offices here.

As I was walking through the town, I came across many guesthouses and homestays. However when I used to enter, there used to big lock on their doors. It seemed that nobody operates any stays here in winter.

I was roaming and roaming. But I couldn’t find anything. I was pretty much disappointed. Hence, I returned back to the bus stand. My mind started thinking that if I don’t get any accommodation, atleast I will catch the bus which goes back to Manali at 1.30 p.m.

However as I reached the bus stand, I saw the name of ” Khandroling Guesthouse”. Contact number was also written on the board. I contacted and the owner of stay came down and told that the room is available. I felt so much relieved.

Stay in Keylong : Khandroling Guesthouse

Mr Ashok Khandroling, who was the owner of the stay, greeted me warmly and took me to show the room.

He told me that this was the best room of his Guesthouse and with the best sunlight.

I took a glance at the room. The beautiful cosy room just stole my heart ❤️ with its first sight. Immediately agreed to stay there.

I was exhausted completely after two days of travel. I just wanted to take a bath. I checked out the bathroom. It was clean and also fully equipped with geyser. Bathroom also has a small window at the top, through which I could see a big snow capped mountain. I had thought, that I will bath in the shower looking at that big fat snow capped mountain.

Then came the biggest shocker! All the water in pipelines gets freezed here in winter and hence there is no water from the bathroom sinks and taps.

Life in winters is extremely hard in Lahaul valley with all the water lines freezed. For bathing with that big fat snow capped mountain view, I will go there in summers😃.

The stay has a small borewell equipped with the motor. Stay owner used to collect water and carry it to the house. He had to take so much efforts to fetch water for the basic necessities.

Hence if you are visiting such a challenging place in winters, don’t complain for not getting bath. Please respect the hardwork of the locals here. They are already taking so much efforts.

Technically speaking, this place is a guesthouse. But in winters, they have no staff. Thankfully, Mr Ashok and his family hosted us personally, even when they had no staff.

And that was the best part, that we got to stay there in their home, dine in their beautiful kitchen and experience the local life. Hence for me, it was not a guesthouse, it was like staying with the family.

Mr Ashok and his wife Mrs Palmo cooked some of most delicious meals. They took care of me like a family member. Mrs Palmo even gave me to wear her beautiful traditional dress called ” Cholu” along with the traditional hallmark cap of Keylong.

” Cholu” is a traditional Lahauli dress for women which they mostly wear in marriages and important religious gatherings.

I enjoyed staying there so much, that I ended up staying at their house for 5 days. I never had ever spent so many days in a single place. Stay at Khandroling is like staying in a home in mountains.

If you are coming to Keylong, I would highly recommend to check out the Khandroling Guesthouse.

Lahaul valley after snowfall

Lahaul valley after snowfall is absolutely a paradise. Views are literally insane!

What can I even write about this winter wonderland?

If I start writing, I will be short of adjectives 😄.Words cannot do justice for the snowfall in Lahaul valley.

Food in Keylong, Lahaul valley

I always love Himalayan food. As the water here is pristine and pollution free, food here is always tasty.

First food which I ate here was in Keylong was in Mandyali Dhaba. I had ordered samosa and pakoda with Chai.

Next food was in Nilkanth Nalwa Restaurant. This restaurant has some of the best views of the Bhaga valley. I recommend to eat chicken Thali in Nilkanth Nalwa restaurant.

I had also tried some mutton momos and mutton Thukpa in a small dhaba opposite the Nalwa restaurant. I don’t remember the name of the Dhaba.

The mutton thukpa at the dhaba was okay, but I loved the thenthuk prepared at our homestay by Mr. Ashok and his lovely wife, Mrs. Palmo, even more. It was the best soup I have ever eaten in my life.

Now comes the best part of the food which I ate in Keylong and which was most tastiest. The food prepared at Khandroling kitchen❤️.

I do have only one regret now that I was unable to drink sea buckthorn juice. But it’s fine. If I like any destination, I usually leave a couple of things spare to return back again.

Gochi : A local cultural celebration in Keylong, Lahaul Valley

I had never heard or read about ” Gochi Festival” earlier. I was lucky that when I travelled to Keylong, I got an opportunity to be a part of this vibrant celebration.

Stay owner Ashok explained me about the Gochi Festival. It is one of the most culturally significant and rare festival celebrated in Keylong, Lahaul Valley by the Bodh community.

Held during the peak winter months, the festival is filled with traditional music, Archery, dance, prayers, feasting, and community bonding.

This festival holds deep spiritual meaning and is specifically dedicated to the celebration of newborn male children in the family. Unlike other festivals that mark seasonal or religious events, Gochi is a gratitude-filled ceremony where families come together to give thanks for the birth of a son and seek blessings for their prosperity and health. It brings the entire village together, reinforcing social unity and shared cultural heritage.

I immediately asked the stay owner that why is there Gochi Festival only for the boys and not for girls. He replied that in the nearby village Pyukar, Gochi Festival is celebrated for new born girls as well as boys.

For me, the highlight of the festival was the archery and the traditional dance. There is a tradition to fill lamb skin with sawdust and use it as a target in archery. Local people believe that if upper target is hit in archery, a baby boy will be born in the upper lane from that house which is hosting Gochi Festival. Vice versa for the lower target.

After the archery, there was a traditional dance around fire. Local people here in Keylong are welcoming and inviting. They invited me to join them for a dance. I found their dance is similar to Garba as it is performed in circles. However Garba is fast paced dance. Here, its slow paced Pahadi dance with graceful hand movements.

Gochi provides a glimpse into the ancient traditions of Lahaul’s Buddhist culture and offers an unforgettable experience for those who visit during this time.

If you ever plan a visit to Keylong in winter, experiencing the Gochi Festival will undoubtedly be a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity!

Tips for surving in Lahaul valley in winters

Lahaul Valley experiences harsh winters with sub-zero temperatures, heavy snowfall, and limited accessibility.

Temperatures here can reach around (- 20°C to -30°C). Hence be prepared for an harsh cold. Don’t expect to shower here as water pipelines will be freezed. I came to Lahaul valley without planning anything. But I survived the cold and harsh winter here, because I am a minimalist traveller and don’t crave any luxury.

Dont enter Lahaul valley in winters on a tight timeline and tight itinerary. Roads can get blocked due to extreme snowfall. Only travel to Lahaul valley in winters , if you have sufficient time and patience.

If you plan to visit or stay in Lahaul during winter, here are some essential survival tips to ensure a safe and comfortable experience.

1. Dress in Layers for Extreme Cold

Wear thermal innerwear, a fleece or woolen layer, and an padded jacket & wind cheater. Use woolen socks, gloves to protect against frostbite. Carry a good rain coat, if you plan to play in snow.

2. Choose Proper Footwear

Use waterproof boots with good grip to walk on icy paths.

3. Stay Hydrated

Drink warm water, soups, and herbal tea to stay hydrated. If you using heater in your room, be extra hydrated.

4. Be Prepared for Limited Connectivity

Electricity and mobile networks may be unreliable. Carry a power bank and offline maps for emergencies. BSNL, Jio and Airtel have better network coverage here.

5. Acclimatize to High Altitude

Drink lots of fluids and avoid alcohol and smoking.

6. Travel with Local Guidance

Roads can be blocked due to snowfall; always check the weather forecast. Hire a local guide for trekking or long travel routes. Keep emergency contact numbers, including BRO (Border Roads Organization) and local rescue teams.

7. Stay in Warm and Well-Equipped Accommodation

Opt for homestays with traditional heating systems like Bukhari (wood stoves). If your stay doesn’t has heater, please ensure that atleast electric kettle is available in the room so that you can keep yourself warm by keeping hot water bottles inside the blanket.

8. Be Cautious of Snow and Avalanches

Avoid steep or unfamiliar routes prone to landslides. If trekking, always travel in a group and follow local advice.

Enjoy the Winter Wonderland, But Stay Safe!

The Most Difficult Part Of Keylong Trip

Extremely harsh cold weather was the second most difficult part of Keylong Trip.

But leaving Keylong was the most difficult part🥲.

I fell in love with the place, it’s tasty delicious food, it’s beautiful snowfall and offcourse the best part, it’s people ❤️.

Khandroling Homestay experience was the best part of my travel. I was treated like a part of family. I will never forget these days.

If anyone wishes to stay at Khandroling Homestay, please contact Mr Ashok, Contact no – +91 94182 05932. Alternative contact number= 7018287432.

Disclaimer : This is not any kind of paid promotion for Khandroling Homestay. I have personally stayed here for 5 days and formed a family like bond with them. I am happily recommending it because I truly loved the experience.

I spent five days here. If time could permit, I would have easily spent a month.

It was freezing cold, so I couldn’t hike upto the Kardang Monestry and Shashur Monestry, but would definitely hike up there in summers.

Also I intend to visit Udaipur, Himachal Pradesh when I come here, next time in summers❤️.

I am sad that I am leaving Lahaul valley 😐, but I am happy that I am leaving this place with a thousand good memories❤️. And the beautiful snowfall of Lahaul valley will always cherish me and make me smile😊.

Hey, dear Keylong! I am leaving you now🥲. But you will never leave my ❤️. And I promise you to visit in summer 🌞.

FAQs on Keylong, Lahaul valley in Winter