From Forts to Frescoes: A Traveller’s Guide to Bundi, Rajasthan

Whenever people think of Rajasthan, they usually picture Jaipur’s grandeur, Udaipur’s romantic lakes, or Jodhpur’s blue charm. But then there is an old, sleepy town of Bundi, just around 40 km away from Kota.

I agree that Bundi does not have flashiness of Jaipur or the romantic vibe of Udaipur, but that’s exactly why you should visit. It’s a town that lets you slow down, soak in history, and enjoy Rajasthan without the tourist traps.

What compelled me to visit Bundi?

These beautiful paintings from Bundi are 700 km away from my place, yet they had some kind of magnetic power to pull me into the quiet, sleepy town of Bundi, Rajasthan.Yes, I can go to a place 700 km away just to see these 300 -350- year old miniature paintings.

Travel planning for Bundi

Hunting office calendar for long weekends & exploring train tickets to offbeat places on IRCTC is a holy compulsory ritual for me. I quickly opened the IRCTC app to search for some convenient overnight trains to Kota. Train tickets get sold quite fast in here. Hence I booked to & fro train tickets two months in advance. For accommodation, I booked a room at Zostel Bundi for two nights. I booked the accomodation roughly around 10 days in advance. But you can also get accommodations on the spot in Bundi as there is no dearth of accommodation in Bundi.

Best time to visit Bundi

Rajasthan can get pretty hot. Bundi is that town in Rajasthan which can be best explored on foot. Hence I chose to travel at the end of monsoon(October) to get the perfect cloudy weather in Bundi. However November to February is also good time.

What did I pack for Bundi?

I just grabbed couple of long dresses & T shirt with cotton pants & shoved them into my backpack. My secret for packing light is not carrying any jeans in any tropical destinations as they are much heavy as well as space occupying. There was probability of slight rain & hence I kept umbrella for emergency.

Journey to Bundi

With the sound of train whistling, the journey to Kota started around 11 pm with me getting a gentle push backward due to the inertia. I had secured my favourite side upper berth & then the best part began when I plugged in my earphone and listened to the 90s Bollywood music. In no time I slept & then found myself awake with the alarm ringing just 10 minutes before Kota station.

After exiting from Kota station at morning 8 o clock, I was still in sleepy mode & was surrounded by a huge swarm of auto rickshaws. However a shouting local bus conductor grabbed my attention & I enquired him whether the bus will take me to the State bus stand. He smiled & handed over a 10 Rupee ticket & dropped me off at the Nayapura Bus stand. From Nayapura bus stand, I took a bus heading to Bundi. Rajasthan State buses offer 50% discount for all females & hence ticket was just 20 Rupees for me. It was an hour long ride.

Trains are also available from Kota Railway Station to Bundi Railway Station but the frequency is very low. Hence I would recommend travelling to Bundi via bus from Kota.

Zostel Bundi is only half a kilometre away from the Bundi Bus stand. I was welcomed by a smiling receptionist of the Zostel & he gave me an early check-in, even though their regular check-in time is 12pm. The room was clean & tidy fully to my satisfaction.

Best places to visit in Bundi

1. Chaugan Gate

While I was on my way to Garh palace, suddenly I was in front of an ancient huge gate with intricate carvings. I did not know the name of the gate, but later, when I browsed , I learned that this ancient gate is called “ Chaugan Gate”. Further walking ahead another 1.5 km ahead of Chaugan Gate, finally the entrance of Taragarh fort greeted me.

I bought the 100 Rupee entrance ticket for Taragarh fort & Garh palace. Chitrashala is also in the fort complex. However, the entry to Chitrashala is free as it is maintained by Indian archeological department. Important note: Please carry a water bottle to the fort complex as there is no water available inside & we have to walk huge distances & sometimes it can get pretty hot.

2. Hathipol, Bundi

The first thing that captured my attention in the fort complex was its grand entrance gate, known as Hathipol. The name comes from “Hathi,” meaning elephant, and “Pol,” meaning gate as this entrance was once used by royals who arrived on the backs of elephants. If you look minutely, you’ll also notice the intricate carvings of peacocks hidden among the details. The sheer size and elaborate design of the gate were intended not only to accommodate elephants but also to showcase the might and authority of the Hada Chauhan rulers who once ruled Bundi. Walking through this gate, it’s easy to imagine richly decorated elephants carrying kings and noblemen through this very path, centuries ago.

3. Bundi Chitrashala

If you ever find yourself wandering around Rajasthan and craving a bit of artistic drama, do yourself a favor and go Bundi Chitrashala,. Think of it as an ancient Instagram feed, filled with Rajput royalty, epic battles, divine romances, and landscapes depicting day to day life. This 18th-century wonder isn’t just a room with some paintings, it is an explosion of colors and emotions, capturing everything from Krishna’s love escapades to festivities.I wandered in, expecting a couple of pretty paintings, but wow! Each wall is like a canvas packed with exquisite detail.

Dear readers, are you captivated by these exquisite miniature paintings? For a deeper dive into the enchanting world of Bundi art, check out our detailed blog on Bundi Chitrashala and discover more of these stunning masterpieces.

4. Ratan Daulat

Just after entering through the Hathipol, I walked to reach “ Ratan Daulat” or Diwan – e- Aam, i.e the place where the King received members of the general public and heard their grievances.

5. Chattar Mahal -“Palace of Umbrellas”

Chattar Mahal in Bundi, Rajasthan, is an architectural gem which was royal residence of the King & his princes. Known as the “Palace of Umbrellas” due to its ornate chhatris (umbrella-shaped domes).The palace is part of the larger Bundi Palace complex. Door of this palace is made up with fine ivory design. Some of the paintings inside this palace were painted with real gold. These gold paintings are the evidence of the utmost extravaganza of the Hada Kings.

6. Phool mahal (Palace of Flowers), Badal Mahal (Palace of Clouds) & Jhoola chowk.

These three places constituted Ladies area inside the fort complex into which only the King was the only man who was could go inside. I can’t imagine the punishments given to the ones who ever try to visit into these areas. But thanks to the Indian democracy, we all can visit these magnificent palaces. After entering Jhoola Chowk area, I was imagining a beautiful queen sitting on huge lavish swing hung between these intricately carved pillars.

7. Unsuccessful attempt to the Taragarh fort top.

Built in the 14th century by Rao Raja Bar Singh, Taragarh Fort is located on strategic location atop a steep hill, providing commanding views of Bundi and its surroundings. While in Garh palace complex, history experts can easily notice that the paintings & intricate carvings have Mughal influence, but there lies Taragarh fort on the top depicting pure Rajput architecture. Over the centuries, Taragarh Fort experienced natural and human-induced deterioration. While the fort retains its aura, parts of it have crumbled & kind of gives haunting vibes. I had gone to the fort coincidentally on Mahanavami Day of Navratri festival. Hence there was zero crowd & I was the only person going to the Taragarh fort. Halfway passed & while was walking through the ruins , I saw an army of monkeys lying ahead on the walls in frontway. I had already read about the notorious attacking monkeys of Bundi & hence I had to abort the fort midway.

8. Sukh mahal (Palace of pleasure) & Jaitsagar lake

Sukh Mahal in Bundi, Rajasthan, is a charming 18th-century palace known for its serene ambiance and historical significance. Nestled by the Jait Sagar Lake, the palace served as a summer retreat for the Bundi royalty.

9. Naval Sagar lake:

Naval Sagar, is a picturesque, man-made reservoir with immense historical and cultural significance. This square-shaped lake, set near the Taragarh Fort, was built to serve as a water source for the city. Its serene waters reflect Bundi’s palaces and temples, adding to its scenic beauty. The lake also features a half-submerged temple dedicated to Varuna, the Hindu god of water, drawing pilgrims and tourists alike for its tranquil ambiance.

10. Rani Ji ki Baori

Built by Queen Nathavati Ji in the 17th century, this isn’t just any stepwell; it’s like the royal version of a water well. With nearly 200 steps and beautiful carvings of gods and elephants, it’s got more style than most buildings today.

Food exploration in Bundi

1. Delicious Lunch at Palace View Homestay

After exploring the Fort, I went for lunch at Palace View Homestay. The owner was extremely welcoming & friendly & took us to his rooftop restaurant. Again as I was traveling on festive day, there was no crowd & I had the whole rooftop restaurant just for myself.

Palace View is true to its name & you get the most amazing view of the fort from the top. I ordered Dal baati without seeing the menu. Half an later, aroma of tadka passed through my nose & it was a sign that the dish was going to be absolutely awesome. The freshly prepared Dal Bati was served with fried chillies & it completely matched my expectations.

Owner of the homestay was so amazing & had so many folk stories about the fort & paintings that even after lunch also, I sat there for 3 hours.

2. Tea at Krishna

Krishna’s tea is arguably the most famous hangout place in Bundi & is flocked by foreigners in huge numbers. I’m not much of a tea person, but I absolutely recommend this place.

3. Blue door rooftop restaurant

Ah!! I am a lazy writer! I am taking a break from writing & commanding the pictures to continue talking.

4. Street food in Bundi

Earlier Bundi streets was ruled by the Hada Rulers , but presently Bundi is ruled by Samosas & Kachori. So whenever in Bundi, just make it a point to eat the samosas & kachori.

Final Thoughts on Bundi

As return journey started, I couldn’t help but feel a deep connection to its rich history, vibrant culture, and warm-hearted people. This town has left its beautiful footprints on my history lover heart.If you want to soak into history, Bundi is waiting wholeheartedly for you.So, what are you guys waiting for? Come experience it for yourself & let Bundi’s magic work its way into your heart, just as it has in mine.